Wow! Only word for it!

 Nangga! Inardi ngariparlaru yarta!

Greetings - Welcome to this land!

Adnyamathanha (meaning rock people) culture is a welcoming and sharing one - and this welcoming and sharing culture extends to you. We respectfully acknowledge the past and present Traditional Owners of Ikara- Flinders Ranges and pay our respects to Adnyamathanha Elders.Together we acknowledge the contributions of the past and present Australians in this country that we all live in and share together. 

This welcome and acknowledgement greets you almost as soon as you enter the park and further cites that IKARA - FLINDERS RANGES is managed co-operatively by Adnyamathanha people and the Department of Environment and Water working to conserve the natural and cultural landscape and better manage the land. The Adnyamathanha are the Traditional custodians of the Flinders with a deep connection to the land for thousands of years and ask that all respect and land and be mindful of this connection to our country.

With this firmly in mind I set out to enjoy my first day of exploration of this utterly stunning environment. 

The hidden jewels in this landscape are the gorges, waterholes and springs that sustain a wealth of plant and animal life as well as supporting Adnyanathanta life and lore. Significant cultural sites can be visited through guided tours.

Early European occupation is also evident revealing how early European settlers struggled to live in this harsh and unpredictable environment.

Rawnsley Bluff is the southern rim of Wilpena Pound and rises majestically above the almost flat plain. I an staying at Rawnsley Station, a working sheep station providing a variety of accommodation styles and caravan park.

  

My next stop - Wilpena Pound a huge naturaL amphitheatre and the centrepiece of Ikara-Flinders RAnges NP. The Visitor Centre and Wilpena Pound Resort offers guided walks, 4x4 tours and Cutural experiences. It's a hiker's paradise.

Visitors must pay a daily rate to use the Park unless they are traveling directly through to Blinman or beyond. Unfortunately I was not able to take a 4x4 tour at Rawnsley or Wilpena as there is a minimum number of 2 required. 

Driving Stokes Hill Lookout and Hack's Lookout give stupendous view. Cliche I know but what can you say when they are stupendous!

  Looking south from Hack's Lookout.

 

From the top of Stoke's Lookout facing East - what a contrast! 

Another 3k down the road a turn-off to the Appealinna Ruins. There was a time when these peaceful hills were a place of conflict between graziers and miners.

In 1856 one Joseph Willis took up scraps of land no-one else wanted and established a pastoral run. He build a modest homestead above the creek and scratched a living.

Shortly afterwards miners arrived drawn by the prospect of copper and built their settlement across the creek from the Wills homestead.  Both parties wanted access to the permanent water.

 

Only the shell of the homestead remains, four rooms one with a substantial fireplace and windows looking to the desolate landscape beyond.

For thirteen years Wills, miners and the Government argued about the boundary of the land. Letters, arguments with other pastoralists, surveyers , miners and Government failed to come to a resolution. 

Eventually a mysterious fire broke out and quickly consumed the homestead. Wills was convinced that the cook from the mining camp John Woods was responsible but at the trial Woods and the mine manger testified that it was a windy night and themagistrate concuded the fire was an accident.

So much for man's endeavours - it's all a bit of history now!

From here I drove to Blinman a town founded on the copper mine which operated in the1880s. The elegant and substantial buildings indicate the success of the mine.  I wandered in to the Blinman Hotel which is a step back in time itself.

My final destination before heading for home was Paraachilna reached over 35k of dirt road. Again the landscape changes; jagged cliffs, gorges and many, many flood ways and creeks crossed the road.  The beautiful Parachilna Gorge has a wide river bed and many of the Flinders Ranges most spectacular tree- the river red gum.

 

 

This stretch of road marks the end of the Heysen Trail - 1200k through South Australia truly beautiful countryside.

 

 So far I haven't managed a hike but there has been such a lot to see and explore that I haven't had time. 

 Tomorrow I am hoping to see the endangered Yellow - footed Wallaby.